When I lived In Seattle, Nelson and Potterfield’s ‘Selected Climbs in the Cascades’ was essentially my climbing bible. So many magnificent climbs, summits, and remote approaches that made the North Cascades this mythical wonderland of relatively unknown and great ascents. I flipped through some of my favorites, Early Winters Spire, Washington Pass, The Pickets, Glacier […]Read more "Eldorado Peak: The East Ridge"
“Let’s go climb Mt. Meeker this weekend! It’ll be fun! We’ll do it for your birthday!” My friend Anh’s excitement was contagious as she described the 13,000-foot peak that she wanted to climb for by birthday. Mt. Meeker may not be a Colorado 14er, but it’s a jagged ridge across a couloir from Longs Peak […]Read more "Nightmare On The Dreamweaver Route of Mt. Meeker"
I am a converted snowshoe believer. In January, I was invited to spend the first day of 2015 in ice-glazed valleys of the Mountain Loop Highway. I didn’t have a pair of snowshoes and my experience was limited at best to a jaunt with friends last March. Compared to my climbing and hiking exploits, snowshoeing […]Read more "Tubbs Flex Alps Snowshoes Review"
“14,000 ft!” My friend, Mick called back to us as we crossed the upper reaches of the mountain. This was it. This was the moment I’d been waiting over two years for. It was 7:45 AM, we’d been climbing since 12:30, having rustled out of our tents under gray skies at 11:30 the night before. […]Read more "I Summited Rainier"
Where the hell is my ice axe? That was my first reaction when I saw the empty slot on my pack. It was two AM, we had just come running down the glacier, past a treacherous snowfield of boulders and ice ready to let loose, and we were preparing to make our way up the […]Read more "Forbidden Remains Forbidden – But I Got To Climb Something Just As Spectacular"
Today I’m launching into the second part of my four-peak project. Forbidden Peak is one of the crown jewels of North Cascades National Park. An 8,000+ foot wall of ice and stone piercing the sky above the Boston Glacier. It’s everything that a great alpine ascent should be: a glacial approach, a moderate grade but […]Read more "Breaking The Forbidden Ridge"
The fun scale is a measurement of enjoyment during any adventure. For most adventurers, fun is broken into three types: Type I, Type II and Type III. It’s how much suffering that you feel before, during, or after the climb, run, or long range trek. The moment that when back at the house, winding down over beers, […]Read more "My Love Affair With Type II Fun"
I wish that I could start the first post of my Four Peak Project on a triumphant note. While our time on the Elliot Glacier was beyond successful, and the education that we received there invaluable, there’s unfortunately been a tragic footnote to our story. About two days into our climb, our guides informed us […]Read more "Mt. Hood Trip Report: A Tough Lesson On Decisions"
“There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.” — Sir Ranulph Fiennes This year, the environments that I subjected myself to tested my experience and skill as a hiker and as a climber like never before. I had to adapt to a year of tough physical work, long days on the trail, […]Read more "Gear Of The Year: My Top Five Favorite Pieces of 2013"
I realize that this site has gone quiet, but I haven’t. Lately i’ve been concentrating my time on my trips, my climbing, my contributions to other publications, and less on my writing here. This is where it started, and as my project now goes into its second year, the weather begins to change, the cold […]Read more "Hiatus Over: Thoughts on My First Full Climbing Season"