This week marks five years to the day of my first attempt on Rainier. I was a rookie. Completely out of my element. Completely unprepared for what I was going to go up against. It was my first peak, my first glacial climb, and my first time using an ice axe. I wanted to do […]Read more "The Photo"
When I lived In Seattle, Nelson and Potterfield’s ‘Selected Climbs in the Cascades’ was essentially my climbing bible. So many magnificent climbs, summits, and remote approaches that made the North Cascades this mythical wonderland of relatively unknown and great ascents. I flipped through some of my favorites, Early Winters Spire, Washington Pass, The Pickets, Glacier […]Read more "Eldorado Peak: The East Ridge"
Thank you Stanley Brand and REI for sponsoring my post and my adventures. On big routes, sprawling alpine walls, and tough climbs, food is meant for sustained energy and warmth. When I’m climbing for multiple days on end, I need to carry equipment that’s light, durable, and easy to clean. Alpine climbing is about constant movement, […]Read more "Alpine Eating"
When the North Face delivered a package at my doorstep when I first moved to Boulder, it started to inspire ideas. Good ideas. Bad ideas. Insane ideas. A few weeks later, they invited me to announce my best idea. Probably the best I’ve had in a while. I’m going to run my first Half Marathon […]Read more "I’m Running My First Half Marathon!"
“Let’s go climb Mt. Meeker this weekend! It’ll be fun! We’ll do it for your birthday!” My friend Anh’s excitement was contagious as she described the 13,000-foot peak that she wanted to climb for by birthday. Mt. Meeker may not be a Colorado 14er, but it’s a jagged ridge across a couloir from Longs Peak […]Read more "Nightmare On The Dreamweaver Route of Mt. Meeker"
How do you define your passion? Are you a hiker, climber, skier, and mountaineer? Or do you simply wrap them under “adventurer” and “outdoor enthusiast”? What experience and what at what level of mastery are you allowed to proclaim that title? A few days before Christmas, I was in a Seattle coffee shop with my friend, Beth […]Read more "What’s In A Name?"
I was only 15 minutes from the summit. That’s what those two other guys we had passed had told me. In the faint distance, between a swirling hurricane of ice, the wind knocking me off my feet, and my ice axe disappearing into an abyss of endless powder, was the summit ridge. But I knew […]Read more "What It Means To Fail"
“14,000 ft!” My friend, Mick called back to us as we crossed the upper reaches of the mountain. This was it. This was the moment I’d been waiting over two years for. It was 7:45 AM, we’d been climbing since 12:30, having rustled out of our tents under gray skies at 11:30 the night before. […]Read more "I Summited Rainier"
Where the hell is my ice axe? That was my first reaction when I saw the empty slot on my pack. It was two AM, we had just come running down the glacier, past a treacherous snowfield of boulders and ice ready to let loose, and we were preparing to make our way up the […]Read more "Forbidden Remains Forbidden – But I Got To Climb Something Just As Spectacular"
As the alpinists and ice climbers sharpen their tools and snowboards and skis are waxed, GORE-TEX® in conjunction with the American Alpine Club held a launch event Thursday night in Seattle to showcase how the manufacturers are making winter shells softer, lighter, and more waterproof than ever before. It was a chance to connect with climbers […]Read more "Winter Preview: GORE-TEX® and The American Alpine Club Get Climbers Excited On New Gear"