I’ve been really excited lately. I feel for the first time in a long time, I’m starting to get my mountain jive back. While I didn’t get to knock off my winter objectives (A winter ascent of Kelso Ridge being at the forefront, and more snowy climbs) I had a pretty spectacular ski season, and […]Read more "Grays Peak – Standard Route"
This week marks five years to the day of my first attempt on Rainier. I was a rookie. Completely out of my element. Completely unprepared for what I was going to go up against. It was my first peak, my first glacial climb, and my first time using an ice axe. I wanted to do […]Read more "The Photo"
When I lived In Seattle, Nelson and Potterfield’s ‘Selected Climbs in the Cascades’ was essentially my climbing bible. So many magnificent climbs, summits, and remote approaches that made the North Cascades this mythical wonderland of relatively unknown and great ascents. I flipped through some of my favorites, Early Winters Spire, Washington Pass, The Pickets, Glacier […]Read more "Eldorado Peak: The East Ridge"
Thank you Stanley Brand and REI for sponsoring my post and my adventures. On big routes, sprawling alpine walls, and tough climbs, food is meant for sustained energy and warmth. When I’m climbing for multiple days on end, I need to carry equipment that’s light, durable, and easy to clean. Alpine climbing is about constant movement, […]Read more "Alpine Eating"
Today I was at my kitchen table thumbing through the latest Patagonia catalog, which discussed some of the issues regarding the explosion of popularity of climbing in Southeastern Utah and how it’s affecting the overall landscape. It’s not new that Indian Creek, Moab, and the areas between Dead Horse, Arches, and Canyonlands National Park are some of […]Read more "The Responsibility of Climbers"
Exploration has become so routine that it’s been almost forgotten in today’s age. A major expedition may make headlines in a climber’s world, but it’ll make the back page of a website or newspaper, usually hidden somewhere in the Sports section. In the Golden Age of Himalayan mountaineering, the world held with bated breath, the […]Read more "In Defense Of Exploration"
How do you define your passion? Are you a hiker, climber, skier, and mountaineer? Or do you simply wrap them under “adventurer” and “outdoor enthusiast”? What experience and what at what level of mastery are you allowed to proclaim that title? A few days before Christmas, I was in a Seattle coffee shop with my friend, Beth […]Read more "What’s In A Name?"
I was only 15 minutes from the summit. That’s what those two other guys we had passed had told me. In the faint distance, between a swirling hurricane of ice, the wind knocking me off my feet, and my ice axe disappearing into an abyss of endless powder, was the summit ridge. But I knew […]Read more "What It Means To Fail"
“14,000 ft!” My friend, Mick called back to us as we crossed the upper reaches of the mountain. This was it. This was the moment I’d been waiting over two years for. It was 7:45 AM, we’d been climbing since 12:30, having rustled out of our tents under gray skies at 11:30 the night before. […]Read more "I Summited Rainier"
Today I’m launching into the second part of my four-peak project. Forbidden Peak is one of the crown jewels of North Cascades National Park. An 8,000+ foot wall of ice and stone piercing the sky above the Boston Glacier. It’s everything that a great alpine ascent should be: a glacial approach, a moderate grade but […]Read more "Breaking The Forbidden Ridge"