Eldorado Peak: The East Ridge

When I lived In Seattle, Nelson and Potterfield’s ‘Selected Climbs in the Cascades’ was essentially my climbing bible. So many magnificent climbs, summits, and remote approaches that made the North Cascades this mythical wonderland of relatively unknown and great ascents. I flipped through some of my favorites, Early Winters Spire, Washington Pass, The Pickets, Glacier […]

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What It Means To Fail

I was only 15 minutes from the summit. That’s what those two other guys we had passed had told me. In the faint distance, between a swirling hurricane of ice, the wind knocking me off my feet, and my ice axe disappearing into an abyss of endless powder, was the summit ridge. But I knew […]

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Gear Review: Montane Volt Fleece

Note: This review precedes my affiliation with The North Face.  I carefully unwrapped my new Montane Volt Fleece from the shrink wrap and ran my hands over the coarse material. While it wasn’t exactly soft to the touch, but it was light. In alpine environments, where I am frequently, a mid-layer fleece can be the […]

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Breaking The Forbidden Ridge

Today I’m launching into the second part of my four-peak project. Forbidden Peak is one of the crown jewels of North Cascades National Park. An 8,000+ foot wall of ice and stone piercing the sky above the Boston Glacier. It’s everything that a great alpine ascent should be: a glacial approach, a moderate grade but […]

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