When I lived In Seattle, Nelson and Potterfield’s ‘Selected Climbs in the Cascades’ was essentially my climbing bible. So many magnificent climbs, summits, and remote approaches that made the North Cascades this mythical wonderland of relatively unknown and great ascents. I flipped through some of my favorites, Early Winters Spire, Washington Pass, The Pickets, Glacier […]Read more "Eldorado Peak: The East Ridge"
I was only 15 minutes from the summit. That’s what those two other guys we had passed had told me. In the faint distance, between a swirling hurricane of ice, the wind knocking me off my feet, and my ice axe disappearing into an abyss of endless powder, was the summit ridge. But I knew […]Read more "What It Means To Fail"
Note: This review precedes my affiliation with The North Face. I carefully unwrapped my new Montane Volt Fleece from the shrink wrap and ran my hands over the coarse material. While it wasn’t exactly soft to the touch, but it was light. In alpine environments, where I am frequently, a mid-layer fleece can be the […]Read more "Gear Review: Montane Volt Fleece"
Where the hell is my ice axe? That was my first reaction when I saw the empty slot on my pack. It was two AM, we had just come running down the glacier, past a treacherous snowfield of boulders and ice ready to let loose, and we were preparing to make our way up the […]Read more "Forbidden Remains Forbidden – But I Got To Climb Something Just As Spectacular"
Today I’m launching into the second part of my four-peak project. Forbidden Peak is one of the crown jewels of North Cascades National Park. An 8,000+ foot wall of ice and stone piercing the sky above the Boston Glacier. It’s everything that a great alpine ascent should be: a glacial approach, a moderate grade but […]Read more "Breaking The Forbidden Ridge"
Every adventurer knows the soul crushing feeling of having to turn around before the summit. It’s a heartbreaking yet necessary call when there is just no way to continue safely. The story of my 2012 attempt on Rainier, my first glacier climb and my first true peak, was a huge learning experience. After dreaming of […]Read more "Going Back: Four Summits in One Year"
I realize that this site has gone quiet, but I haven’t. Lately i’ve been concentrating my time on my trips, my climbing, my contributions to other publications, and less on my writing here. This is where it started, and as my project now goes into its second year, the weather begins to change, the cold […]Read more "Hiatus Over: Thoughts on My First Full Climbing Season"